Uni chop, power conversion, and NNC art application

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OldFoo

Uni chop, power conversion, and NNC art application

Post by OldFoo »

At the request of RGP, enjoy my photo journal of the trip.



Step one -- disassemble. Note, previous owner thought it was a better idea to mangle the security screws then bother getting the right bit, so the heads are destroyed and no bits fit.



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So, we dremel slots into them...



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And use a regular screwdriver.



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In addition, the previous owner thought it would be 'awesome' to rivet the rail on also.



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We recovered the best sideart to put on the cabinet that's staying a 'Naomi' cabinet. The T was transferred to the other cab. We're debating the orange stripe.



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There's fewer components to this cabinet than any other I've seen, so it comes apart fairly quickly.



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There's not that much to the cabinet at all.



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Away, tall-making coinbox!



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Control box emptied out



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Wires to the bottom



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Starting to look more like a Kiosk



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Monitor pulled



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Then the rails come down



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The monitor housing and speaker box, all cleaned, brand new 4" 8ohm speakers from Bob Roberts.



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The cleaned and polished base, and original power wiring (the only wiring I am retaining for this project)



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First box of goodies arrived



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Second box of goodies arrived



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Everything that is going into the power-supply tray for this cabinet:



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The mess I made, crafting a few custom power harnesses for AC routing:



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The completed power/sound tray:



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The switches are as such:

Black, on the left -- cabinet power

Red lighted, on the left -- JVS power (when running Naomi or similar)

Toggle #1, right side -- Down for JAMMA Audio, Up for Amplified JVS Audio

Toggle #2, right side -- Down for JAMMA Mono, Up for JAMMA Stereo

JAMMA supply power LED and 5V adjustment visible through portal on right.



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Ye ol' miter out of storage.



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We need to take exactly 338mm off this leg.



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Ready for the cutting.



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Sorry Jonny! No turning back now...



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Remove the clamp...



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The separation.



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Holy sit down, mother of god.



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Choppage complete!



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5 Mount holes (slotted), one wire path, and two foot-mounts must be recreated on the shortened rail.



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After slotting the holes, we cut and deburr the wire path...



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Fitting the first leg...



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The modified rail attached...



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And, squaring everything up with the mounting rails. The wiring on the left is the JAMMA controls wiring.



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The new monitor, test fit onto the cabinet:



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Only slight modification was required to the brackets, four drilled holes on the drill press.



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Nice and clean.



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Test fitting around the new monitor



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There is a 3/8" gap, this monitor is flatter. We scribe a line to cut the bezel to shape



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And space the monitor off the back with nylon spacers.



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For fun and to give us a boost, we assembled the control panel today in factory original colors, vermillion and dark blue...



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The JAMMA harness is complete, time to test on a very expensive board.



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Here we go...



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Success.



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Picture of the OSD:



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Internal tray -- the first two buttons are wired as test and service. Harnesses coming in on the left include controls, kick harness wiring, various misc JAMMA lines (like coin inputs) and audio will be routed this way too.



All DC/logic is on the left side of the cabinet, AC is running up the right rail.



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Coin buttons, outside the cabinet, in the spot where the coin return would go. Now, the Test/Service harness and the coin button harness are identical the way I wired it, allowing you to decide -- if you'd rather have the test/service outside the CP, you simply swap the two harnesses, and then the coin is inside on the red buttons, and the test/service are on the outside. Handy for non-freeplay boards in one configuration, and handy for experimenting with settings on the other hand. The buttons are recessed enough that bumping them is very unlikely.



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Inside Tray: Monitor Controls, interlace/non-interlace force switch, Test, service, two additional buttons (unused), volume for audio amp.



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Control panel preview:



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We's got SOUND now:



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And the back has been attached.



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Now, we have to grind the bezel to shape. Variable speed dremels are the best.



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This is what's left over -- not everything was ground, some ended up melting away because of the heat of the stone.



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Now we mount it to check fit...



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Is was freehanded, so it wasn't perfect.



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But from here, it does look very good...



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An early group shot mostly assembled.



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The panel is about 60% wired now.



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Finish the panel and do a bit of playtesting.



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But it's still not a New Net City...



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Just a couple more key cuts to do.



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The soap reacted oddly with the old glue.



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Apply art...



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Assemble sides...



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And, we're done. Thanks to everyone for your assistance.



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OldFoo

Post by OldFoo »

Thanks, this is a most excellent guide :smt007
OldFoo

Post by OldFoo »

Proper way of doing it, nice work.. sad that most haven't got the skills or the tools.. :smt007



Easier option is to buy my conversion kits.. :)
OldFoo

Post by OldFoo »

Nice work! I have 2 questions for you:



1) What kind of monitor is that?

2) Can you explain a bit more the process to adapt the bezel?

Did you just slide one of your spacers around the screen perimeter and used that as the reference for the cut-line or what?
OldFoo

Post by OldFoo »

Nice work Dan!! Kinda pissed you beat me to it but ohh well!!! Heres my 2. I also cut down a Jap Net City for OldSchoolNeo, which are in fact shorter than USA Naomi Uni's, they also took care of the wiring flaws that exsist in the USA cabs as the Jap Net City had lots of disconnects at key areas making it easier to pull the wiring back to the base.



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OldFoo

Post by OldFoo »

Stupid question, but since these were shortened US cabs, where do you put the coin in now that the coinbox/coin entry is gone?
OldFoo

Post by OldFoo »

That's not a stupid question at all Dave, you don't put the coin in! (a US chopped, anyway) :)
OldFoo

Post by OldFoo »

maxchainsplendid wrote:That's not a stupid question at all Dave, you don't put the coin in! (a US chopped, anyway) :)


Thats not entirely true....Im working on getting two vertical coin mechs/assemblies for mine, to make them more proper.
OldFoo

Post by OldFoo »

UK/Japan control panel uppers have a cut-out for coin entry.



Although locating a 3.5" /5" coin mech holder assy for a Naomi is nigh on impossible.



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OldFoo

Post by OldFoo »

Yeah Andy...I'm working to trying to find that assy right now....cutting the slot aint a big deal....I'll let you guys know if I do find one.
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