Daytona USA issue - VR button glitch

OldFoo · Post by **OldFoo** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 1:31 am

Whats up guys. Ok, so I just got a Daytona 1 UR cab, and I'm having an issue with view #3. Basically, when I switch to view 3 (the closeup 3rd person view of the car), all I get is sky - you can't see the track or car or anything. Views 1, 2, and 4 work perfectly. The funny thing is, this "glitch" is present in the attract screens too! Any ideas what this can be? I did an input test, and all the buttons are wokring properly.

OldFoo · Post by **OldFoo** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 9:36 am

i have the same thing on one my daytona's,its one of the graphic ram ic that is either faulty or a bad solder connection

you will find it on the video board and there are 20 odd,it could be any one of those

OldFoo · Post by **OldFoo** » Fri Aug 22, 2008 1:30 am

So its one of the socketed mask roms or eproms? Is there any way of telling which one is bad? I did a RAM check and everything checks out.

OldFoo · Post by **OldFoo** » Fri Aug 22, 2008 3:13 am

lordviper63 wrote:So its one of the socketed mask roms or eproms? Is there any way of telling which one is bad? I did a RAM check and everything checks out.

no its one of the many 128kb smt graphic rams,they are surface mount ic-so you need the correct equipment to swap them

would need a scope to find which one is faulty

OldFoo · Post by **OldFoo** » Fri Aug 22, 2008 8:36 am

Any tips on scoping these ?

I have similar problems on a few baords and am looking at getting the equipment to repair them.

Andy

OldFoo · Post by **OldFoo** » Sun Aug 24, 2008 11:53 am

grantspain wrote:
lordviper63 wrote:So its one of the socketed mask roms or eproms? Is there any way of telling which one is bad? I did a RAM check and everything checks out.
no its one of the many 128kb smt graphic rams,they are surface mount ic-so you need the correct equipment to swap them

would need a scope to find which one is faulty

What exactly do these look like?I'm trying to see if I can find a bad solder connection, but everything looks ok on the solder-side. Also, is the video board interchangeable with any other Model 2 games? Cause I have 2 Virtua Fighter 2's...

OldFoo · Post by **OldFoo** » Sun Aug 24, 2008 2:37 pm

they are on the video board which is the bottom one,these are 32 pin surface mount ic and there about 20 in total

can't remember the ic number something like hct128,i can check tuesday as i have a daytona board to repair

if there is a bad solder joint you won't see it and tbh it is most likely a dead ic,the difficult thing is identifing which one of the many is dead-i tend to swap out 5 at a time

the fault i am fixing tues is every view except 4 shows sky or fields

daytona is different to other model 2 boards

OldFoo · Post by **OldFoo** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 12:57 pm

Grantspain, were you able to repair your Daytona? I'm wondering if I should just get a new board altogether.

OldFoo · Post by **OldFoo** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 1:55 pm

well after nearly screwing up the video board(by breaking a track),then using my common sense and swapping boards units between one of my working sets and thus finding the problem to be the cpu board i decided to stop,reason being as i believe the problem is one of the big ic and i do not have the correct equipment to swap it

i am deciding whether to send it for repair or just get another model 2 cpu atm

i would suggest you swap the boards on the stack to prove the problem.

but the link i gave you is the top man for sega repair,worth a quote

OldFoo · Post by **OldFoo** » Wed Sep 03, 2008 5:38 pm

Thanks to Ken Westerfield of Advanced Repair Center, he taught me a simple trick to fix this problem. I've had it come up a number of times on my machine.

On the CPU board, there is a small component, C62 that looks like a resistor (maybe a capacitor due to the "C" designation but I'm not circuit board savvy). It is on the side closest to the connections of the four boards to the machine. With the machine off, use a pair of hemostats or something simliar to short across the component, and hold for twenty seconds or so. This will, amazingly, fix that very problem the next time you turn on the machine.

My apologies to Ken if he doesn't want this trick given out, but it is a simple solution for a simple problem that I've had to deal with.

If you need more sophisticated repairs, then he is the one to talk to, for sure.