Sega-Naomi

Ok, so I went to play some Daytona 2 a little while ago, but I got a green screen. I thought maybe a connector came loose from the filter board, but everything seemed ok. I tried again - this time I got a few screens in, and when you get the text "The Heat is On", it froze, but the music kept playing. I tried my SCUD Race board...no problems, it works fine. I put the Daytona 2 back in, and this time I don't get any screen at all. I try again, green screen. Anyone know what it could possibly be? Its obviously something with the pcb, but I haven't even touched it. Its still in its metal case. The only time I messed with it was to swap it out for a Battle on the Edge rom board and dongle (It was originally Power Edition), but that was well over a year ago, and its worked fine until now.

UPDATE. I got the game to run long enough so that I could do a memory check. All of the tests came out good, so the problem can't be the ROM board or the video board. Could it be the CPU board? Basically, it'll get to the intro, then freeze.

lordviper63 wrote:Ok, so I went to play some Daytona 2 a little while ago, but I got a green screen. I thought maybe a connector came loose from the filter board, but everything seemed ok. I tried again - this time I got a few screens in, and when you get the text "The Heat is On", it froze, but the music kept playing. I tried my SCUD Race board...no problems, it works fine. I put the Daytona 2 back in, and this time I don't get any screen at all. I try again, green screen. Anyone know what it could possibly be? Its obviously something with the pcb, but I haven't even touched it. Its still in its metal case. The only time I messed with it was to swap it out for a Battle on the Edge rom board and dongle (It was originally Power Edition), but that was well over a year ago, and its worked fine until now.

Yep, Sounds familar,



1) Check the obvious. Power Supply Voltages under load. There are test points on the ROM BD (I think proper voltages are 3.3 and 5.1 - Check with Geezer to be sure) but I seriously doubt it is the PS. Voltages. Ensure you check for 5.1vdc and 3.3 on the board, rather than the power supply. Chech for voltage across any of the (pink) colored capacitors (they look like small pink resistors).



2) If not already done so, try performing "backup data clear", many times

this will clear up software glitches on Daytona USA.



3) Check the red and green 'indicators' and see if the are sequenceing or if they freeze. If they freeze would lean towards faulty CPU but could be Video Board.



4) Likely CPU BD or VIDEO BD but almost impossible to tell which without a spare boards to swap out.



I had a video overlay issue (at first) that eventually turned into a similar lockup that you are having. Turned out to be the CPU BD but I would have bet money it was the video BD.



I think the problem stems from the machine not being 'stable' on the floor. On mine for example, I only have the wheels so I can move it around easy. I do not have the 'leg bolts' in. My guess is that the Force Feedback and shaking of the machine cause vibration and mechanical/electrical failure. But this is just a guess.



Good news is that my failure resulted in me buying about $3K in spares which include



2x Dirt Devils Masked ROM and ROM BD

2x Sega Rally 2 Masked ROM and ROM BD

2x D2USA BOTE Masked ROM and ROM BD

1X D2USA PE Masked ROM and ROM BD

1x ECA Masked ROM and ROM BD

1x Super GT Scud Race Masked ROM and ROM BD







BTW. IF you want to sell your D2USAPE rom bd and dongle LMK.



Regards

Bob Presutti

Ok I checked the LED's on the board. The ones on the comm. board are steady, but the LED's near the dongle flash in a seemingly random matter. Also, I'm confused with the memory tests...the CPU RAM and ROM tests are good. The Video RAM and ROM tests are also good. Which of these correspond to the actual ROM board on top of the pcb stack? I'd like to get out of this cheap, as I can't afford ~$900 for a whole new pcb. Oh and I did the backup data clear with no luck. :smt009 Anyone got a Model 3 2.1 pcb for sale? I'm desperate.

lordviper63 wrote:Ok I checked the LED's on the board. The ones on the comm. board are steady,

Unless you have twin machines you do not even need the comm board so just take that out to reduce the number of variables.



If you do have twins then you can swap CPU's and determine if issue follows CPU or Video Bd although not sure I can %100 reccomend this becuase if the issue that fried your board in the first place is still there you could easliy fry another board. But then again not sure you have much choice. You will need to make this decision on your own.

lordviper63 wrote:
but the LED's near the dongle flash in a seemingly random matter. Also, I'm confused with the memory tests...the CPU RAM and ROM tests are good. The Video RAM and ROM tests are also good. Which of these correspond to the actual ROM board on top of the pcb stack? I'd like to get out of this cheap, as I can't afford ~$900 for a whole new pcb. Oh and I did the backup data clear with no luck. :smt009 Anyone got a Model 3 2.1 pcb for sale? I'm desperate.

If the CPU is still running but the Video Board is frozen I would think you could still credit up the machine, hit start, and 'hear' the game progress thorugh the select track, select car, go, etc. Not sure if there is any handshake between CPU and VIDEO board that would stop this. Again, it will be difficult to trouble shoot this without a spare set of boards. As I mentioned same type of issue ended up leaving me feeling vulnerable and I now sit with way too much inventory in spares in case another 'glitch' happens in the future.





Regards

Bob Presutti

I know this sounds dumb, bu thave you tried re-seating all the roms and boards?

From my extensive experience on Model 3.



I'd say the 3.3V line is too low.



Model 3 games it is common to lock up after around few seconds due the voltage not being high enough.



Check both 5V and 3.3V with a multi-meter under load.

Thanks for the reponse Andy. Where on the pcb should I check for the 3.3 and +5? Also, does Model 3 Step 2.1 require more voltage than 1.5? Because my SCUD seems to work fine. Just checking to see if its pickier with that kind of thing.

lordviper63 wrote:Thanks for the reponse Andy. Where on the pcb should I check for the 3.3 and +5?

There are test points on the ROM BD (I think proper voltages are 3.3 and 5.1 - Check with Geezer to be sure) Ensure you check for 5.1vdc and 3.3 on the ROM board, rather than the power supply. Chech for voltage across any of the (pink) colored capacitors (they look like small pink resistors). Some will read about 5.1 some will read 3.3. It should be pretty straight forward to determine which one is 3.3 and which one is 5.1 just by measuering with Multi-Meter.



There are pots on the power supply to adust. They should be labeled 3.3 and 5.

lordviper63 wrote:Also, does Model 3 Step 2.1 require more voltage than 1.5? Because my SCUD seems to work fine. Just checking to see if its pickier with that kind of thing.

Technically I think the question would be does the Scud Stack Draw more current than the D2USA stack.



Each BD draws a certain amount of current. If too much current is drawn this will 'drag' the voltage down on the power supply.



If there is no COMM BD in the scud stack then that would account for a little less current draw.



If the fan bearings in one stack are more worn than in the other the fans would draw more current.



Easy thing to do would be to measure 3.3 on each stack and see how much each stack is loading the power supply.



Regards

Bob Presutti

So I checked the 3.3v line...it was measuring 3.31 at the supply (not the pcb). I turned it ever so slightly up to 3.35, voila! My Daytona 2 is working perfectly now! Thanks for all of the help Andy and SkiDog. Oh, and I have a comm board hooked up to the Daytona 2 (which I don't even use), but not the SCUD, so that may be attributed to the problem I was having with one board working and the other not. Thanks again guys, really...I thought I was in trouble.