Sega-Naomi

Hey guys.

I've been a silent observer for a bit, and joined the forums a few days ago.



I recently got my hands on a US style (pvgsemco) cabinet fitted with a NAOMI1, capcom I/O, sharp image 27", and Heavy Metal Geomatrix(US)...



Super clean, but I do need to make some changes.



First order of business, and the point of this post, is that I need to convert the CP to a standard six button fighter style.



It's currently got a four button layout (lp,mp,hp;lk) so really all we're talking about is to drill the four additional holes, throw in some extra buttons(and replace the weird not quite HAPP style buttons that are there already) and wire em up. It's standard cab MDF (3/4"? 1"?)



My question is this:

What is the best way to drill the CP?

I've built a CP for a ghetto MAME cab, as well as a beast of a joystick using wireless x360 guts, but both used 1/2" mdf and no plexi.



My MAIN worry is unscrewing the screws that secure the CP mdf to the flip hinge on the front of the cab. I'm not to familiar with woodworking in general, MDF in particular.

If I remove these screws to get the CP off, would I have issues when trying to put it back on using the same screwholes? Would they still hold?

If not, or even if, is it stupid to entertain the idea of drilling my holes through both the plexi and mdf simultaneously, while the CP is still attached? Like back it with newspaper or plastic to catch the dust and plexi shavings and have at it? Or is that a super dumbass move?



I also worry about cracking the plexi, as well as just effing up the stock panel in general. I've used hole saws in the past and plan to use them again...



So? Best practices gentlemen?

What to do?



Thanks in advance,

Case

eideal wrote:...If I remove these screws to get the CP off, would I have issues when trying to put it back on using the same screwholes? Would they still hold?



I also worry about cracking the plexi, as well as just effing up the stock panel in general...

If your screws are designed to be used in MDF then you should be OK. MDF screws have a large cut thread to hold into the MDF.



You could try a test screw pick one on the hinge and remove it and install it again.

If you take the panel off and find that the screws don't hold you could use some construction adhesive like PL Premium in the holes and on the hinge.



Plexi glass is not a wise choice for making a control panel cover. Use a polycarbonate like lexan. Its a little bit more money but does not crack when you drill it. FYI 1 in. Lexan is bullet proof.

If you are going to use your old plexi glass remove it from the panel and drill it slow on a piece of wood to prevent braking. If it cracks to the polycarbonate route.



T

Yeah, I agree.. probably better to get a piece of Lexan and use the original CP as a template. Make sure you use a good quality hole drill, and place the Lexan on a piece of wood while drilling! Is will prevent the drill bit from 'wandering off' when drilling holes for buttons and such.



I have the same experience drilling in Plexi. It WILL shatter, unless it is REALLY tightly clamped between two sheets of wood, and drilling through the entire stack.. Just use the current intact piece as a template

So, I'm guessing that it's not a great idea drilling it right where it sits?. I was hoping that there may be some benefit to the plexi effectively being "clamped" to the wood by the existing buttons, screws, etc. Plus then I could keep it wired, it looks awfully clean!





I'm definitely going to have to at least <I>try</I> to use the existing plexi (hell I suppose it could be lexan, anybody know how to tell?) because of money. The costs can so easily add up!

I have heard a few things: clamped down at least, SANDWICHED between two sheets, or, interestingly, but it makes sense, to run the hole saw in reverse, effectively <I>melting</I> through the plexi..



Anyone heard of THAT?



My biggest issue is I've already tried my hand at gutting a crappy cab to improve it, I jumped on this one cos it in such good shape, I really don't wanna jack it up... Slow and steady I suppose, lol.

At this point give it a try clamp a piece of wood on the top and sandwiched it between. If it cracks then replace the plex with polycarbonate.



Drill it forward if using the sandwich between wood. The hole saw in reverse is an attempt to slow down the drilling to prevent cracks that might work but may damage the control panel artwork with the extra heat generated.



T

That reminds me, the CP artwork is standard Capcom faux metal kick plate pattern over the whole thing. I assume this is aadhesive layer, any special requirements for popping through that stuff? Or is that cake once I figure out the plexi?

EZ cutting with knife!



T

Well. Did it and couldn't have been smoother. Actually ended up buy a seven dollar 1 1/8 forstener bit, had at it with the pkexi screwed down to the CP, and the buttons wrenched tight in place acting as a clamp of sorts...

Man that forstener bit went like buttah. Smooth, clean holes, SOS so much better (even on the MDF) than the super chunky 1 1/8 holesaw I've used previously...



I know you're all living the life with interchangeable CPs and sheet metal, but any yank cab owners'd do themselves a favor to pick up one ofthese bad boys.



Thanks again for all the input...