Hello,
I think I messed up my Sanwa PM1745 Chassis. It was giving off colors so I pulled it out and reflowed solder to the area that would correct if you pushed on it.
The problem is when I hooked it back up much later, I connected the "CRT/E" wire to the "P1 N" pin on the chassis by mistake. When it powered on you could hear a loud clicking sound thru the speakers. I quickly powered it off to see what happened. After inspecting it, I found out what I did wrong, and found both fuses blown, 1.6A 250V and the 4A 250V. I replaced both fuses and connected the CRT/E wire correctly to the neck board not the chassis. Now it only blows the 1.6A 250V fuse. Upon further inspection, I believe the HOT is bad. I have not been able to find the diagram for this monitor and I am not sure what else could of been damaged by my mistake. So far I think I need a C5143 HOT, which I have not been able to locate.
Does anyone know what else may of been damaged or what else I should check?
Does anyone know where I can get the HOT?
Does anyone have the schematics for this chassis?
Thank you for reading my post.
Sanwa PM1745 Chassis Need Help.
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OldFoo
SANWA CHASSIS
i have sanwa chassis for sale complete working
and also the lopte for sale
http://www.videotronicsuk.com/index.php ... t&Itemid=1
http://www.videotronicsuk.com/index.php ... t&Itemid=1
and also the lopte for sale
http://www.videotronicsuk.com/index.php ... t&Itemid=1
http://www.videotronicsuk.com/index.php ... t&Itemid=1
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OldFoo
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OldFoo
Sorry to hear that. As far as the Horizontal output and what else to check, also please check your flyback. It just takes a sec to crack/short it and after hunting down a new HOT you don't want to pop it again.
I know this may not help you much right now, but to anyone doing TV/Tube monitor repair I recommend using a load lamp. It is an old school trick that limits current by using a light bulb in series.
Use one every time and bring things up on a a variac to prevent additional damage when working/diag on a set.
I know this may not help you much right now, but to anyone doing TV/Tube monitor repair I recommend using a load lamp. It is an old school trick that limits current by using a light bulb in series.
Use one every time and bring things up on a a variac to prevent additional damage when working/diag on a set.
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OldFoo
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OldFoo
I would suggest looking up the part number and getting the pin out that way. Even if you can only find a sub part number through your search it will have the same pin out. There is usualy a cap, a diode and sometimes winding shorts that can be detected with a meter. Since you detected no cracking, arc-ing, no burnt smell etc. some would say just bring up the set slowly watching your B+ and limit the current to avoid blowing the HOT again. Some sets don't like to be brought up slowly so watch out for hammering the circuit. It is still better than just poping in a fuse and plugging it in to the wall.
Something else to think about while waiting for parts, when you were soldering the set for cold joints, did you go back and double check those areas for an unlikely bridge as well? I would never question your work so don't take it that way, its just that unless you clean it all up with MEK or some other solvent sometimes you will miss an unintended short.
Something else to think about while waiting for parts, when you were soldering the set for cold joints, did you go back and double check those areas for an unlikely bridge as well? I would never question your work so don't take it that way, its just that unless you clean it all up with MEK or some other solvent sometimes you will miss an unintended short.
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OldFoo
I received my HOT, but now I need to know what is the lone resistor value which is located on the solder side of the chassis? I can not read the color code and the values are unstable. Not sure if it was added as a later mod or if it came from the factory that way. I can not find it in any diagrams. It is the lone little resistor under the chassis towards the outer edge, middle.