Ok, I'm finally going to rotate the monitor in one of my universals for some Under Defeat action. I've removed the bezel and the 6 screws holding the CRT cover. The problem is that the CRT cover will not come off. It looks like it is only supposed to held by the 6 screws in the back, but it will not budge (it defies gravity). Am I missing something? Am I going to need to take a mallet to this thing to get it free? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Need Help Rotating a Monitor
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OldFoo
you dont need to remove the rear CRT cover to tate the monitor
all you need to do is remove the front plastics
as shown in my next picture
personally I think its a 2 person job to tate the screens on Naomi standups simply because of how high they are, although I have done it on my own, its not an easy task in comparison to a Candy cab - I also have to remove the CP as it gets in my way.
all you need to do is remove the front plastics
as shown in my next picture
personally I think its a 2 person job to tate the screens on Naomi standups simply because of how high they are, although I have done it on my own, its not an easy task in comparison to a Candy cab - I also have to remove the CP as it gets in my way.
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OldFoo
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OldFoo
the only thing you need to watch out for is snagging the wires for VGA/power/degauss. some naomi Uni's have an extra plate under the monitor (only ever seen one on a Rev 1 UK Naomi tho)
I will admit, it does make life easier to undo the VGA/power cables if you have no CRT cover on, but with 2 peoples and a bit of patience its more than do-able
is your rear CRT using the security screws ?
I will admit, it does make life easier to undo the VGA/power cables if you have no CRT cover on, but with 2 peoples and a bit of patience its more than do-able
is your rear CRT using the security screws ?
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OldFoo
HI Sam,
Also, as in Megalo's picture is is worth removing the Control Panel in addition to the bezel. Especially if you are planning on doing it by yourself. I removed one this weekend. Was not too bad with bezel and control panel removed and a Heavy Duty set of gloves to keep your fingers from getting pinched/smashed. (and watch out for the cables like Megalo mentioned)
In answer to your other question I think in addition to the 6 screws on the back plastic monitor chasis cover it is also 'wedged' in at the top by a plate for the lighting fixture held in by 3 screws.
You got Under Defeat. Congrats. :smt026 :smt023
Regards
Bob
Also, as in Megalo's picture is is worth removing the Control Panel in addition to the bezel. Especially if you are planning on doing it by yourself. I removed one this weekend. Was not too bad with bezel and control panel removed and a Heavy Duty set of gloves to keep your fingers from getting pinched/smashed. (and watch out for the cables like Megalo mentioned)
In answer to your other question I think in addition to the 6 screws on the back plastic monitor chasis cover it is also 'wedged' in at the top by a plate for the lighting fixture held in by 3 screws.
You got Under Defeat. Congrats. :smt026 :smt023
Regards
Bob
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OldFoo
Man, this is a royal pain in the arse! As it turns out the US versions must be different, as I had to remove the CRT cover (the marquee light setup had to come with it). There is a actually a 2 part metal cover over the CRT that has to be removed as well. Once all that crap was out of the way I rotated the monitor COUNTER CLOCKWISE as that was what was pictured in the book. The problem now is that the cable (VGA cable I believe) that plugs into the monitor is not long enough now that the connector it plugs into is in a different position. There's slack in the bottom, but I cannot get any of that slack to transfer to up top. PLEASE HELP!
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OldFoo
OldSchoolNeo wrote:Man, this is a royal pain in the arse! As it turns out the US versions must be different, as I had to remove the CRT cover (the marquee light setup had to come with it). There is a actually a 2 part metal cover over the CRT that has to be removed as well. Once all that crap was out of the way I rotated the monitor COUNTER CLOCKWISE as that was what was pictured in the book. The problem now is that the cable (VGA cable I believe) that plugs into the monitor is not long enough now that the connector it plugs into is in a different position. There's slack in the bottom, but I cannot get any of that slack to transfer to up top. PLEASE HELP!
Hi Sam
If it is just the VGA cable go to Radio Shack, Best Buy, Tiger Direct, etc and get a 1-2 foot M/F shielded VGA extension cable
Regards
Bob
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OldFoo
I finally got it sorted, I had to pop the side panel on the leg off to cut the zip ties attaching the VGA cable to other wires. They were bound together so tightly that I could not pull the VGA cord at all. Once clipped, I got the extra slack up top that I needed. Hooked it all up and it worked! Now I just need to get everything cleaned back up and back together (I did unhook the CP as it was in the way). Luckily I had another person helping, it would be damn tough with just one person. I can honestly say I will NEVER rotate another one!
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OldFoo
SkiDog wrote:HI Sam,
Also, as in Megalo's picture is is worth removing the Control Panel in addition to the bezel. Especially if you are planning on doing it by yourself. I removed one this weekend. Was not too bad with bezel and control panel removed and a Heavy Duty set of gloves to keep your fingers from getting pinched/smashed. (and watch out for the cables like Megalo mentioned)
In answer to your other question I think in addition to the 6 screws on the back plastic monitor chasis cover it is also 'wedged' in at the top by a plate for the lighting fixture held in by 3 screws.
You got Under Defeat. Congrats. :smt026 :smt023
Regards
Bob
Yeah I got a new Under Defeat Kit complete with the original box, poster, marquee, etc. I really want Ikaruga now.
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OldFoo