UPDATE: Experts, Need Cabinet help! Something's very wrong!

Naomi & all other arcade tech questions forum
OldFoo

Post by OldFoo »

Ok, the black lead goes to hole #3 and the red goes to #4 on the meter. The setting you used before (20v, left side) is correct. The black lead goes to either of the 2 black wired posts on the psu and stays there. To check for 5v, place the red lead to the red wired post. To check for 12v, put the red lead to the orange wired post.



Checking the psu without any load will just check if there is any voltage present. You can do this as a preliminary check. After verifying that the voltages are present and that there is no over-voltage, you can then connect a known working pcb on the jamma harness and check the psu readings again. If the readings are lower than in the check, the psu needs to be adjusted.



If you want to check the AC portion, you need to change the meter setting to the red 200 on the right side. Since we are dealing with AC, it doesn't matter which lead goes to where. Place both leads on the two posts that read 'AC' (2 purple leads). It should read around 115VAC (+/-5%).
OldFoo

Post by OldFoo »

joshua3dg wrote:Ok, the black lead goes to hole #3 and the red goes to #4 on the meter. The setting you used before (20v, left side) is correct. The black lead goes to either of the 2 black wired posts on the psu and stays there. To check for 5v, place the red lead to the red wired post. To check for 12v, put the red lead to the orange wired post.



Checking the psu without any load will just check if there is any voltage present. You can do this as a preliminary check. After verifying that the voltages are present and that there is no over-voltage, you can then connect a known working pcb on the jamma harness and check the psu readings again. If the readings are lower than in the check, the psu needs to be adjusted.



If you want to check the AC portion, you need to change the meter setting to the red 200 on the right side. Since we are dealing with AC, it doesn't matter which lead goes to where. Place both leads on the two posts that read 'AC' (2 purple leads). It should read around 115VAC (+/-5%).


Hey Joshua,



Okay, so I plugged in the black to the hole with "COM" underneath it, and the red to the one that says "V" underneath it.



I turned the meter dial to the left (counterclockwise) to 20 (approximately 10:00).



The readout says 0.00.



I don't know if I'm supposed to turn the machine on when you check the readings, but I'll do it both ways:



Off - I get nothing (which may or may not make sense.)



On - I get nothing.



Unless I'm doing it wrong.



I touched the black lead tip to the screw on one of the black wired posts. Then I touched the red to the red wired post screw. Then I did it more underneath the screw for both.



Then I turned the machine on, and repeated the process. Nothing.



Then I tried the same with the orange wired post. Nothing.



Next, I turned the dial to the right side, 200. Touched a lead to each purple wired post, and nothing.



Turned the machine on, and repeated, and the meter read 130.



I believe I'm doing this correctly, so I don't know what this means.



Like I said, when I turn the machine on, the marquee light and monitor come on.
OldFoo

Post by OldFoo »

Ok, first things first. I don't think you should be getting 130VAC in your house. You might want to have that checked out. Even though your AC is a bit high, it is still within the range printed on your psu (barely). The high AC could also mean that if you had a spike or other rise in voltage that your psu could have been overloaded.



That aside, if you are getting AC to your psu's inputs, and nothing on your 5V and 12v, then that means your psu has been fried. You will need to get a new one.



BTW, if you don't fix you high AC issue, you risk blowing the new one. :smt073
OldFoo

Post by OldFoo »

joshua3dg wrote:Ok, first things first. I don't think you should be getting 130VAC in your house. You might want to have that checked out. Even though your AC is a bit high, it is still within the range printed on your psu (barely). The high AC could also mean that if you had a spike or other rise in voltage that your psu could have been overloaded.



That aside, if you are getting AC to your psu's inputs, and nothing on your 5V and 12v, then that means your psu has been fried. You will need to get a new one.



BTW, if you don't fix you high AC issue, you risk blowing the new one. :smt073


Would I be able to check the outlet to see what the AC is, or should I not use this for that?



Also, since I'm not sure, am I doing this wrong? Should I be getting nothing when the machine is off?



Do I just need to touch the head of the screw on these posts, or should I be touching something else?



Is it possible that the transformer in the machine is to blame, rather than my house?



Sorry for the questions, but I greatly appreciate the answers.



Steve
OldFoo

Post by OldFoo »

a) You can use the meter to check the outlet directly in the same manner you checked the AC on the psu.



b) If the machine is off, there would naturally be nothing to measure.



c) On a supply line, like 5v, no matter where you test the 5v will still be 5v. If you get nothing at the source, you will get nothing everywhere.



d) If you measure the voltage at the outlet and get a 130v reading, then it's not the transformer. Assuming it is a 1:1 transformer, what goes in also goes out.
OldFoo

Post by OldFoo »

joshua3dg wrote:a) You can use the meter to check the outlet directly in the same manner you checked the AC on the psu.



b) If the machine is off, there would naturally be nothing to measure.



c) On a supply line, like 5v, no matter where you test the 5v will still be 5v. If you get nothing at the source, you will get nothing everywhere.



d) If you measure the voltage at the outlet and get a 130v reading, then it's not the transformer. Assuming it is a 1:1 transformer, what goes in also goes out.


I checked the outlet - it's 120.



So, what does this all mean?
OldFoo

Post by OldFoo »

Did the transformer come with the cab? Or did you buy it separately? Are there any markings that show it's rated input/output settings?
OldFoo

Post by OldFoo »

joshua3dg wrote:Did the transformer come with the cab? Or did you buy it separately? Are there any markings that show it's rated input/output settings?


The transformer was in the cab when I bought it from an arcade.



It has a Midway games sticker on it.



On the side of the transformer, it says 115/230 VOLTS 50/60 HZ.



Above each of the two removable fuses, there is a sticker that says 250 V.
OldFoo

Post by OldFoo »

Ok, those numbers are normal. Quick question: When you measured the AC at the psu, did you place the meter leads on each of the posts marked 'AC'?
OldFoo

Post by OldFoo »

joshua3dg wrote:Ok, those numbers are normal. Quick question: When you measured the AC at the psu, did you place the meter leads on each of the posts marked 'AC'?


Using the picture in this thread, I touched the black lead to the top of the screw on the left purple wired post. Then I touched the red lead to the top of the screw on the right purple wired post.



I just did it again, to make sure. Still fluctuates between 129.7-130.0.
Post Reply