Sanwa 29e31s NO PSU: Solutions?

[OldFoo]

Hi guys,



guess its better to introdcue myself first since I?m new to this forum:)



My name is Alex, originally from St Petersburg, Russia, currently living in Germany and during the last few years I developed a strong interest into Sega hardware and games. I think this is actually achildhood trauma since when I was a kid in Russia onl the rich kids had Mega Drives and I "only" had a Famicom clone (Contra being the first game nevertheless:) so I only heard rumors about such games as Road Rash or Robocop vs Terminator xD So anyway, once being able to afford it I startet collecting mainly Sega stuff and after several years few thing are still to be collected (except from the "Radian Silvergun"- , "Panorama Cotton" candidates etc) So recently, after having picked up a white japanese Saturn Arcade Stick and hooked by the clicking sounds xD I became obsessed with the idea of acquiring an arcade cab.



Here in Germany arcade gaming practically evaporated in der late 90s due to some questionable legislation concerning youth protection so finding a cab for a reasonalbe price is a real b?tch. I ended up picking a Naomi Universal Cab (upright) 3 days ago for 60? not far away from my place in pretty rough shape. This thing did not come with any internal parts except from the Sanwa screen including the chassis (31khz only) and a control panel. My plan is simply to hook up a DC via VGA box + hacked controllers shoul I be able to get the Sanwa up and running.



Unfortunately my knowledge in electronics is rather rudimentary, I?ve only done I couple to region mods to my sega consoles so far.



To make a long story short I wasn?t able to find much info on how to power the Sanwa alone without having to buy a specific Sega Arcade PSU (by SUN?)



Then I found this post

http://www.sega-naomi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5104



by which I have been overwehlmed because it refers to a wohle Naomi setup while I only need to power the monitor. Another problem ist the 220 Voltage in Europe.



Does it mean I can?t poer the Sanwa via a normal 220v ATX PSU?



If not, can I take a US ATX PSU and use a stepdown converter? Which modifications form the aforementioned thread do have to be done in order to do so? The solution should not be very pricy because I don?t even have the guarranty that tha chasis still works (tube looks good though)







If i?m not able to test the Sanwa and get it up and running I plan on trying to biuld a 29 inch CRT into the Sega frame. I have already eyed up this one.



http://www.ebay.de/itm/170803702099?ssP ... 1438.l2649



but I??m not sure if its not too flat. The pics can be misleading. I dont want a 100 hz CRT because House of the Dead 2 with the guns is an absolute MUST (being the game or all times and peoples





Hope you guys can help.



Have a nice day!



Cheers Alex

[OldFoo]

Forgive me if I am misunderstanding your question.

From what I understand you are trying to power a JP spec Sanwa CRT monitor right?



That should be powered with mains AC. 100-120V 50/60hz verify by checking the chassis.



The reference to PC PSU only applies to substituting the game board power supply but since you are using a Dreamcast you don?t need any of that.



In your setup you would be going out of the Dreamcast via a VGA adapter. The VGA 15HD would connect via cable into the monitor. The only other connection would be the 2 wires for AC mains (as above) and another two wires that just go to a simple temporary switch for the degaussing coil.



The only real issue I see is if you have 220V mains and a 100V chassis. You would have to replace or modify the Sanwa chassis (I am not familiar with that chassis to know if it is capable of change) for your local mains or get a step down transformer.



If you go the rout of a step down transformer make sure it is capable of at least 3 amps.

You may be able to get away with a lighter transformer if you disconnect the degaussing circuit completely as this coil pulls a bit of startup current. The second concern is to try to run a Dreamcast from the same mains since you can run into sync problems if trying to power the monitor and Dreamcast from different power sources (different side of a converter) since sync is derived from the mains wavelength (50/60hz.).



In any case there should be no Sun or other PC power supply involved to power your monitor.



viele Gr??e

[OldFoo]

Hi, many thanks for taking the time to answer. I?ve seen your reply a couple of mins ago by accident because somehow I haven?t been notified by mail about it.



1) Anyway, by now I?ve managed to squeeze a 29 inch Sony Trinitron CRT TV into the naomi and wired it up to a 60 Hz modified Mega Drive + 32x (probably will get a 2nd sega cd to put it in the cab just for Robo Aleste, Lords of Thunder and a couple more like Night Striker) + a Dreamcast with only the guns attached to it for House of the Dead 2. Both via Scart RGB. The MD looks stunning!



http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/405/dsc00990c.jpg



The only problem is that while the tube was curved horizontally and fitted perfectly on the up and down sides it was completely flat on the vertical sides so that now there is ja small gap on the left and right.



http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/809/dsc00993u.jpg



You guys have any suggestions about that without having to cut the frame? (Since I want to leave it in its original shape in order to leave the possibility of putting the original Sanwa monitor back in).





2) Concerning the Sanwa: I?d still like to get it up and running in order to test the picture quality and have an option for the future. By now I?ve found out that there are really only 2 power cables going from P801 (The black a white cables)



http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/269/dsc00987vd.jpg



http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/577/dsc00989w.jpg



So if I understand you correctly I don?t need an extra PSU with some fancy voltage like 3.3V , 5 V etc for the monitor only but only two cables running from P 801 on the chassis to a transformator / stepdown converter 220 V to 110 V?



In fact I found such a thing which I got a while ago with a Jap Dreamcast.



http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/444/dsc00982g.jpg



But I doubt it can withstand 3 Amps because it says "For PS, Sat, 3DO" or am I wrong?



Assuming the converter can withstand 3 amps: is it correct that then I simply have to connect it to P801 on the chassis?



Thanks again for your reply man!



Cheers Alex

[OldFoo]

Very nice! That Sony looks great in there. I've prefered the Trinitrons and have a few set aside for projects myself. Unfortunately stateside the 27" and 32" were the popular sizes in the tube days and it is hard to find anything in between here. When they went to Wega they got completely flat but I know even the earlier curved were flat on the sides like you are experiencing. My suggestion would be to use a convenient square foam usually sold in rolls which is adhesive backed on one side. The color is a very dark charcoal black which makes it non reflective and will blend in well. Depending on exactly which one they can take up a gap of up to 25mm and still compress cleanly in the areas that the gap is more narrow. You would just line up the strip and attach it to the TV against a mark you made before removing it so you will know where the flush line is. You would then just slide it back in place and have clean lines. The availability and application these are sold for varies so I wont link it but if you search your local hardware/construction/home improvement store for the seals used for window air conditioners or other weather proofing supplies you will probably find something easily. That's my suggestion.



Yes, you are correct, it just needs AC mains at about 110V but I can't confirm for sure about the connector you show in the picture. I would meter and follow the traces on the power board to confirm it is the correct connector. Beside the 2 for power there will also be 2 wires for the degaussing circuit. These will go to a simple switch. You can verify that connection point by following the traces. It should go to a thermal resistor unit and to the connector that the coil connects to (black wrapped coil running around the edges of the CRT).



That small switching power supply unfortunately will not be able to handle the power a tube TV like that pulls. You need at least 2.5 AMP capacity and I would go a little higher (3A) for safe measure and in case you want to run some 110V consoles as well. The last time I saw a solution worthy it was a core transformer with 110 on one side and 220 on the other. It is just an iron core device which based on a turns ratio converts the voltage up or down naturaly. Thats the way most all power supplies were made in the old days. The little black box switching power supplies are a lot lighter, flexible and less expensive but I have yet to see one be able to cope with high demands without costing a ton, but who knows its been a few years since I've looked. If you do look for a solution be sure to read the intended use for the converter. I've seen many a person fry something because it was designed for another type of use (some things are resistance current like blow dryers, others require clean sine waves like computers, etc.). Good luck!

[OldFoo]

Hey SegaGT, thanks again for the reply. I?ll keep an eye out for a proper transformator that?s not too expensive.



Concerning the margins on the sides thats a good idea to test at least the foam solution. Haven?t some anything in the shops yet but I consider testing that one (not adhesive on the side though)



http://www.ebay.de/itm/140626348256?var ... 1438.l2649



Its like 7 bucks incl. shipping so I?kk probably give it a go.



Yeah the Trinitron really offers a great picture. Actually the pircture is only 27 inches but the tube is 29 so there are 0,5 cm borders on the sides and a 1 cm border on the top. I was ware of that as well as of the flatness before the buying decision but still wanted a Trinitron tube though:) I think I?ll try to reposition the tube in the future a litte bit up. The fixing holes on the tube are different than on the priginal monitor, hence the deviation. But the Naomi offered to my surprise rather many settings on the frame with all the screws and spacers for a possible tolerance so that won??t be a problem I think.



Anyway, I?m pretty happy by now that the thing is up and running. Its really the ultimate gaming machine xD With the infinite MD / Sega CD / 32x / Master System Arcade Hits supply Especially Shmups

PLUS HOUSE OF THE DEAD 2 which is mandatory. Man, that game is simply unreal. Guess because I it was the first one that I player nack in the day (on the PC). Part 3 is not quite on par. Haven?t played part 1 yet though (besides the Saturn port xD). But I?m looking forward to part 4 at least on PSN. Played it in the arcades briefly in Italy.



Hmm, now that the machine is almost complete besides minor cosmetic issues (perhaps a 6 button setu in the future for MK2 on 32x but I find that the 3 button layout loks better) I need another project. Guess this is how it all starts, right xD?



I? ve already eyed up an Outrun Cabaret Cab (slightly smaller than the regular standup), but man, its already at 170 euros and the auction still runs a whole week. Besides its 500 km away but I?m still temped.



What cabs do you have?



Cheers and thanks again man!

[OldFoo]

Hey, No problem!



You should be able to find something to test that will not cost too much. I ran into this Artikelnummer if you search in eBay for 120827279128.



That is the type I was thinking about and very inexpensive, no adhesive and sold in different thickness depending on how big the gap is but am sure there must be something in your area so you should not have to order it. I understand your not trusting adhesive backed but in the times I have used some the adhesive is not permanent, it comes off with a little effort but helps keep it in place.



House of the Dead 2 is one of my brothers favorites! He first got into the older ones like Area 51 too. He would absolutely freak out if I got a complete machine!



Unfortunately I have a very tiny house with no room left so I do not have any room for cabs...



I collect for my own personal video game museum which will cover 1972-2002 30 years of console gaming (Odyssey to Xbox with some arcade and development hardware as well) concentrating on Sega. My goal is to have a dedcated on line as well as a walk in museum some day, or at minimum participate in events where I can bring and set up portions to share.



I am dog tired when I get home from work lately so I have been putting off uploading pictures of my Naomi stuff but will do so hopefully soon. I am just using this page (see my profile for the link if you want to check out a small portion of my collection) as a temporary place to show a couple things (a few hundred pictures there). Those as Dreamcast but I also have a ton of Saturn, 32X, and many more things.



As for Naomi I have:

Naomi 2 GDROM setup

Naomi 2 NET DIMM setup

Naomi 1 cart setup all 3 on wood backer with Naomi Amps, PS and I/O.



In addition I have a brand new Naomi 1 in factory box and 2 more motherboards, a Capcom I/O, various games, translights, coin mechs, 2 link boards etc.



I will never own my favorite Naomi though. That would be a F355 Deluxe 3 monitor. I have the Naomi manual for the twin and I can just picture linking up 4 twins for 8 player! Just a dream that will never happen.

Just for fun I have a pair of Dreamcast with linking and the official Ferrari wheels to do a micro setup of the twin.



Oh well I'll stop talking about consoles before I get myself

banned here!



Good Luck on your projects